The History of Cider Making in the UK

Although novel incarnations of cider appear on the supermarket shelves all the time, this fabulous apple nectar is far from new, with its presence stretching back for centuries. It is not all documented, so there are a number of theories, but we thought you might be interested to hear our thoughts on the history of cider making and how Sandford Orchards fits in.

Ancient Origins

You might think of an apple as a very British fruit but, although many varieties are grown here now, they are unlikely to be originally native to these isles. The apple’s origins predate records and are debated by archeologists, historians and anthropologists but Malus sieversii, considered to be the wild predecessor to domesticated apples, can still be found growing in modern-day Kazakhstan. It is believed that from the Tien Shan mountain range there, they were spread to Europe along the Silk Route. There is evidence that they were introduced to Italy several thousand years ago and, from there, it is likely that the Romans first introduced them to Britain, when they invaded in 55BCE. At that point in time it is probable that crab apples were the only variety growing in the UK and the locals had already used these to create something akin to cider. Indications are that when the Romans settled here they brought their horticultural and fermentation expertise, along with a variety of apples, that flourished here and paved the way for more widespread cider making.

Cider Through The Ages

It appears that there was a lull in cider production after the Romans left until a boost from the Normans, when they took over in 1066. They also loved cider, and still do, and they coined the name ‘sidre’ from the Latin word ‘sicera’, meaning intoxicating drink. They are thought to have planted orchards and introduced new varieties of apple. Cider continued to be made throughout the centuries as a low alcohol, safer alternative to drinking dirty water and competed with beer, wine and spirits in the popularity stakes. Cider was simply made by crushing apples and fermenting their juice and was particularly widespread in rural areas where land owners often part paid their staff with cider. Records suggest that every farmer that had the right environment for growing apples had his own orchard and access to a press!

The Golden Era

Cider’s greatest boost, however, is said to have happened between the 16th and 19th century. At this time, a change in climate led to lower temperatures that killed off grape vines throughout the UK. Apples were able to survive these cooler environments and continued to thrive. Meanwhile, wars in Europe appear to have stopped the influx of French and Spanish wine, sherry and brandy, knocking out these competitors and leaving cider, alongside ale, as the popular domestic drink option. John Evelyn, who presented his work ‘Pomona’ to the Royal Society, is widely credited with promoting cider as a real alternative and creating a path to a more prestigious and widespread recognition. It seems that local cider makers thrived!

Cider Business

Towards the end of the 19th century, Percy Bulmer started making cider using apples from his family’s orchard. Herbert Durham, a Cambridge graduate and friend of Percy’s brother, isolated a wild yeast to create the first pure cider yeast culture and shared this with Percy. This new yeast would ensure that fermentations were consistent and is considered by many to be the birth of commercial cider-making. Small family businesses grew into companies that produced large volumes of cider distributed across the nation and beyond, bringing the joy of cider to the masses. This is where our part of cider history starts.

Our Part of History

The oldest working Cider Works in the UK was built in 1930 on the site of an earlier cider mill that was run by the Burrows family, owners of a busy hotel and pub business. Norman and Pring, who owned pubs and two local breweries, bought the site and set up the new Creedy Valley Cider company. The Cider Works is an imposing building which looks out over the valley and stands as an emphatic reminder of the importance and status of cider to Crediton and the wider area. It’s a big steel and brick building, built on the north side of a steep hill. The vat house is cut into that hill, and so maintains a smooth cool temperature all year long, neither freezing in the winter, nor warm in the summer. It is perfect for fermentation and storage of good cider.

The Creedy Valley Cider Company

The Creedy Valley Cider Company implemented modern methods at their new Cider Works.  Small barrels, prone to leakage and infection, were replaced by impressive oak vats that were easier to clean, strongly made and far less susceptible to spoilage. Out went the small, slow, inefficient presses, which meant apples could lie around and rot before being pressed. In came huge knife mills that ate through the apples and hydraulic presses that rapidly extracted the juice. With slick rail cart systems they kept a constant throughput and harvest and pressing ran side by side, as we do today. However, in 1964 the business was bought by Whitbread who kept the pubs and sold off Creedy Valley Cider. HP Bulmer took ownership but ran down the stocks and closed the business for good in 1967.

A New Chapter

Since 2014 we have been the proud custodians of The Cider Works in Crediton. We’ve replaced dodgy roof sheets, repaired some tired flooring and modernised processes a bit, but, really, we just moved back into a place that was built to make cider. It’s tall, it’s cool and it’s full of the fruit of our valleys once again. Mechanisation has eased the process but this innovation is combined with tradition so that, at its core, our authentic cider is still made by pressing and cold fermenting locally grown apples: something that has taken place in Crediton for centuries. We love sharing the story of our historic home and all things cider-related. If you would like to hear more, book yourself onto one of our monthly tours and tastings.